Saturday, June 13, 2009

Walking around Leipzig

This morning I woke up around 10 to let my body rest after a long day and adjust to the 6 hours to which it isn't accustomed. I got up, ate a little breakfast, grabbed my Leipzig map and took to walking...a lot. The Lindner Hotel is about 4 or 5 miles from the city center, but it was a beautiful day of 65 - 72 degree weather. Walking was just fine with me. I headed toward the Zentrumnord (North central) portion of the city, where the Leipzig zoo is and the St. Michael church are located. I thought I might be able to hop on a train and get off at the St. Thomas Church, where Bach spent the last of his years (1723-1750). The Thomaskirche was the main objective for the day, and it was certainly the highlight. I couldn't find a train stop in the Zentrumnord, so I decided to snap a few quick pictures of the church before going south toward the Bachmoshere. Beautiful building. Adorning it is a grassy noll lined with roses...slight wind, chirping birds...beautiful day to see it. I wasn't allowed to take pictures of the interior, but I did get to go inside for a moment. Great acoustic...it was still set up from the previous evening's musical endeavors. I took a peek and headed toward Thomashof Straße to the musical Mecca. As I walked, I took photos of the city and it's old German architecture...I'm sure I looked like a tourist, but no one asked. I didn't really know what to expect on the journey, but I knew what the Thomaskirche looked like. I just kept my eyes open for the large white triangle between two spires. Then I saw it. At first glance it honestly took my breath away. It wasn't even the best view! I just saw it and instantly knew. I really couldn't believe I was looking at it with my own eyes. In fact, I don't think I really believed I was actually in Leipzig until that moment. Before I left the states, I looked up concert schedules for the Bachfest, which is happening now through the 21st, and I was excited to know that there would be a concert on the 13th, today. I was so involved in walking and looking for the place that I forgot all about the concert, and when I got there I realized I was in plenty of time to attend. I grabbed some lunch, and paid my two euros to listen to some timeless music. Lunch was interesting. The food was great, but it was the first time I actually had to speak to people who didn't speak English well. I walked up to the front of a restaurant behing the Thomaskirche, and inadvertently walked through a group of 20-somethings small circle. oops. It didn't really look like they were a group, as they were at separate tables, but as soon as I was in the middle of it, I quickly knew I wasn't welcome. I told them I was sorry and kept walking before they realized I was American and didn't speak German very well, and before they decided to put their large bicepts to use...Other than that, lunch was exquisite, and I paid and headed off to the church.
The concert brought me to tears. The organist was splendind and the choir was good, the Thomasorganist Ullrich Böhme and the Leipziger Oratorienchor. German professional musicians performing music by Germans in Germany...I was pretty much out of my skin. I was privileged to hear "Freie Phantasie" für Orgel on the Thomaskirche organ by Mendelssohn, "Der Mensch lebt und bestehet, op. 138 Nr.1" a piece for double choir by Max Reger (a new name for me...great music), "Meinen Jesum laß ich nicht" a cantata for soprano, choir, violin, viola, and organ. The congregation also participated in the final movement with the chorale melody, as is Baroque tradition in cantata performance. It was just awe-inspiring. We heard a seron of sorts, stood for prayer, recited the Lord's prayer (Vaterunser) in German, of course, sat and lastly listened to Bach's "Gott der Herr ist Sonn unSchild" cantata 79. This was a cantata written for Reformation celebration, and the text has ties to Psalm 84:12. A true jewel to hear inside the Thomaskirche walls. Then I walked back to the Hotel in complete silence...not because of the whole difficulty with the German language thing. I just couldn't bring myself to do anything but reflect as I walked.

I've posted pictures here.

6 comments:

Russell said...

Wow, what a trip! Enjoyed the pictures, too!

Shanna said...

And so glad to iChat with you this afternoon (night-time for you!). Enjoy the concerts on Sunday! Don't overdo the walking...

Rach said...

so glad you got to hear the concert

Anonymous said...

Enjoying music, great traditional architecture, walking on a nice day, gradually getting over jet lag, figuring out how to order meals and get along with the townspeople......you are doing all the right things!! With each passing day you will be more skilled at handling matters and your enjoyment and appreciation will deepen. Hurrah for you! Gayle

Matthew Cook said...

Excellent stuff amigo! Oh wait... Mein Freund! (Must have been in Costa Rica too long...)
Anyway, keep having a great time and posting pictures/blogging for us!

McClure said...

sooooo awesome!!!!! can't wait to look at the pictures... oh man have fun, dude!