Tuesday, June 30, 2009

The Ballet

The Ballet was a good first experience. It featured the Music of Stravinsky, in particular Agnon, Les Noces, and Petruschka. Petruschka was the biggest and most well-known of the three pieces. The work is divided into four scenes:

"Scene I is set in the Admiralty Square, as it is the carnival fair. Men, women and children are taking delight in the attractions, walking around, quarrelling and laughing. Some drunks are showing off and two dancing girls are competing for the audience's attention. In one of the show booths, an old Charlatan plating the flute presents his three puppets - Petruschka, a Ballerina, and a Moor. Scene II is set in Petruschka's cell, with the walls decorated with stars and half-moons. Petruschka is forced back into his cell by the old Charlatan; he attempts to flee but the door is locked. Petruschka bemoans his fate, and when the Ballerina calls on him, he awkwardly confesses his affection for her. The Ballerina rejects his advances, however. Scene III is set in the Moor's room, decorated with palm trees and fruits. The Moor is lying on his bed playing with a coconut, which he tries in vain to open. Finally, he bows to it instead. The Ballerina enters the room with a trumpet and begins o dance; the Moor joins her. A jealous Petruschka then rushes in, and the two men start fighting, while the Ballerina runs away. Scene IV is set the same as scene I. In the evening, everyone is enjoying themselves on the square. Soon it starts to snow and masqueraders appear. Suddenly Petruschka, the Moor and the Ballerina run out of the puppeteer's show booth: the Moor goes after Petruschka and stabs him to death. Someone fetches the old Charlatan; he reassures everyone that Petruschka is not a real person but a puppet. Their minds set at rest, the people disperse. While the man is dragging away the lifeless puppet, Petruschka appears on the roof of the theatre booth, gesticulating wildly. The old Charlatan drops the puppet and disappears; Petruschka keels over."

Those are the program notes of the performance of Petruschka. Agnon and Les Noces did not have any program notes in English...so I have some homework when I get back to the states. These two performances were more in line with 20th century, avant-garde choreography. Interessting display of flexibility... The dancers were quite good...I never realized the human body could do the things they pulled off. Interesting, but hard to follow at times. Petruschka, on the other hand, was choreographed in a bit more traditional style...costumes, props, etc... I felt like I was at an opera without the singers. It was much easier to follow.
The music was performed really well by the Gewandhaus Orchester...except Les Noces. The director of the Ballet chose to play a recording of the music. Unfortunate, really, but Les Noces is quite a score to pull off...an orchestra with singers. That amounts to a lot of money toward performers' wages. Still, I was a bit disappointed with a recording in a professional performance. Besides the recording and the hard to follow choreography, it was a sucessful and uplifting experience. Those two things were minor in the grand scheme of the event.

I recommend that you find out where Petruschka (in English it's spelled "Petrushka") is showing and that you go see it. You will not be disappointed...unless the choreographer is not so good...

Sunday, June 28, 2009

Das Mendelssohnhaus

Hallo!

After attending service at the Thomaskirche this morning, I ate a bite of lunch and scrambled off to see the living quarters of Felix Mendelssohn-Bartoldy during his tenure here in Leipzig. The house is way cool! Very beautiful. A lot of space to stretch-out. I took a few pictures of the place, got a program of the Mendelssohn concerts taking place across Germany this year, as it is his 200th birthday (in February) this year; then I headed back home to get ready for a concert of Stravinky's music later tonight. I've never been to a ballet, so tonight will be a first. I'll tell you all about it soon.

Tschüss!

Saturday, June 27, 2009

Leipzig Zoo

This morning I took a personal field trip to the Zoo. I have pictures, and a small video to show for the much fun I had. It seems that the Zoo spends a substantial amount of time and money on studying monkeys. There were quite a few encaged from several species, and they showed a video of the studies that are being executed on some of the little guys. They do psychological studies...watching it reminded me of reading about Pavlov's dogs. They would put food in these hard to reach places and watch the monkeys get it out. One study was done on an Orangutan, where two glasses of juice were shown to it, and he was supposed to pick the one with the most liquid in it...he accomplished his little mission every time. Anyway...enjoy!


Friday, June 26, 2009

Gewandhaus Singen

The Gewandhaus employs a good choir. Singing with them for the evening was really a pleasant experience. We were led through a warm-up by a student, and a lot of bodily kinesthetics were used...I noticed that last Sunday as well in the choir that sang Elijah. The Germans seem to be upholding the traditions of music education in Europe (natürlich!). There was, unfortunately, only one student conductor. Usually there are 3 or 4 I was told. We sang a piece by Scandinavian composer Knut Nystedt, Peace I Leave With You, from a set of 3 motets. Beautiful music! (Die Musik ist sehr schön!) We only spent our time on that motet, rather than singing through all of them...afterall, it was a masterclass not to see how many pieces we could sing, but it was for the student conductor. The conductor had good things and bad things...(like all conductors, I suppose). She had really good ears. She heard wrong notes, wrong pronunciation, etc... It seemed she had a musical idea for the piece. She didn't make much eye contact, and her gesture was all over the place and mostly unhelpful to the singers. Anyway... I could keep talking, but I'll spare you the conducting lesson. Overall, however, she was a normal conducting student working out her personal obstacles.
On to more exciting concert news... My Deutsch teacher found me a ticket to the "Stravinsky-Project" that is taking place on Sunday evening. It's a ballet the Leipzig Operhaus is doing consisting of Stravinsky's music. She got this ticket for me for 5 Euros. Only 5...tickets are going for much more than that, but she knows people at the Operhaus and is able to get great seats for cheap. So...off to theballet I go!
Here is information on Quedlinburg, if you are interested, and information on Thale. These are the places I went last weekend. I believe the Quedlinburg site has a different URL for the English translation, but I'm not so sure of the Thale site. In the upper right area of the Thale site, you should see a British flag. Click on it, and voila! you have the translation.
Class has been going well. Today was the Friday phenomenon, where people have mentally shut down academically. Today's class was a little frustrating, but this has been the only day like this. Hopefully it won't be a problem next week.
Tonight I attend the Thomaskirche for another Bach Motetten; tomorrow I go to the Leipzig Zoo and another Bach Motetten. Look for more pictures in a couple of days.

'wiedersehen!
Tschüss!

Tuesday, June 16, 2009

First day of Deutsche Klasse

Last night there was a meet-and-greet party for all of the students, and most of them are from the states. It calmed my nerves a bit to know that a lot of them have had either no German, as much German as I, or only a little more than I have had...whew. After yesterday's wandering around Leipzig with all of my possessions, I felt a little overwhelmed. And after today's first class, I feel much better about this adventure. The teacher speaks ONLY German to us, so that's something around which to wrap my brain. Although it's hard today, it will get better I'm sure...I would even feel slighted the experience if she taught us in English. Afterall, I came here to learn German!

So...here is the itenerary for each week:
9 - 12:30...class everyday
Mitteltagsessen
2 - 3:30...class
Abendessen
5 - 7...evening cultural activity (different choices each night)

The cultural activities include going dancing, bowling (I like to bowl, but I think I'll skip this...I can bowl at home.), and you guessed it...concerts. Bach/ Mendelssohn concerts, not pop music. There is a Stravinsky concert sometime in the coming weeks as well.

Well, I have had to post this at Starbucks, as I still have no Internet in my room. I only have 1 hour here before my connection expires.

bis Morgen!

Long Post...

Sunday, June 14
Leipzig's Music...
...ist sehr schön (is very beautiful). I heard at 9:30 this morning a Sunday morning service at the St. Thomas Church, where they performed Bach's Cantata, BWV 20 (Cantata number 20), some Mendelssohn and some more Max Reger...I'm beginning to feel like I missed something major in my Choral Literature class. Max Reger is all over the place. He lived from 1873 to 1916, and all I really know at this point is he composed very good music for choirs, also organ. I participated in the Lutheran service this morning, and I'm certain I am a fan of traditional liturgy...I just liked it a lot, despite my upbringings, as it was deeply moving...not just because it was Bach's music being played at the Thomaskirche but because it was Theologically correct and uplifting in every way. After the service, I sat down for some Mitteltagessen (lunch) and ordered what I thought was salmon soup with toast...instead I was brought liver dumpling soup. I have to say that it was very good. I'm not a liver and onions fan, but the last I checked I tasted that when I was somewhere in the neighborhood of ten years old. I might try it again... After looking at the menu again, I scolded myself on getting that completely wrong...lebenknödelsuppe (if I remember correctly) HAS to include liver. Leben=life, or when thought about creatively means "liver", knödel has to have something to do with dumplings and suppe = soup, pretty self explanatory. Ah well...new experiences are new adventures, which means I'm living and learning. After Mitteltagessen, I took a walk to the Nikolaikirche (St. Nickolas Church), where Bach also had some responsibilities during his 27 year tenure in Leipzig. There was a brass ensemble rehearsing when I walked in, and I recognized some of the music as some of the US's favorite jazz tunes- When the Saints Go Marching In und Old Time Religion. I'm not sure why they were playing those tunes, as it is the time of the summer when Leipzig engages in the Bach festival... I stayed for a little while to take some pictures of the church and listen to the rehearsal. Some folks clapped after one of the numbers and they were quickly informed that it wasn't a performance. After leaving Die Nikolaikirche, I headed back to the Thomaskirche for a concert of Chorwerke von Mendelssohn und Reger (Choral works of Mendelssohn and Reger). I also heard an organ piece by Reger (are you noticing a Reger pattern here like I am...?). The performers were some professional German soloists (Sopran, Alt, Tenor, und Bass), Gerhard Weinberger as the Organist, the Thomaskantor (Music director at the St. Thomas Church) Gerog Christoph Biller was the conductor, and I was so privileged to hear the Thomanorchor Leipzig (St. Thomas boychoir) combined with the Dresdner Kreuzchor (The Dresden boychoir). Great choirs, great singing, OH! and I failed to mention I heard the Gewandhaus Orchester (The orchestra of the professional concert hall of Leipzig) contributing to all of this great music making. After the concert, I headed back to the hotel. It was getting dark, and I didn't really want to be out late...plus my feet are pretty much killing me. It's quite worth it, however.

More pictures posted on my photobucket page under "Leipzig Day 2."


Monday, June 15
Hotel Checkout and Registration
Today was rather uneventful, but full of events…if that makes sense what-so-ever. I checked out of the Hotel, found the Herder Institute, where the German class is offered, and they told me a lot of information including the whereabouts of my room. After speaking with the registration assistants, I hopped on a couple of trams to the vicinity of my 3-week dwelling and of course got lost looking for the place. They didn’t give me an exact map but only described how to get there. But I found it eventually. Among that information they told me was how to set up an Internet connection…all the instructions were in German and for a Windows machine. Not so good. I asked for instructions concerning a Mac, and naturally it’s different. So no Internet all day… I tried to follow the Windows directions, but I was told I need another procedure to do the job. Hopefully I can have that fixed tomorrow.
And on a better note, I got to see more of Leipzig. I wandered the Hauptbanhoff, the main train station, and it is the largest one in Germany. Not only is it a large train station, but it is a large mall-like area with clothing stores, grocery stores, and cafés. I now know where to go get food and all that I need. I didn’t take pictures today, but there will be more to come.
As it is almost 10:15 and I have to get up early, I shall rest my weary English ears that have been exposed to so much German so that I can be ready for more German tomorrow!

‘wiedersehen! Tschüss!

Saturday, June 13, 2009

Walking around Leipzig

This morning I woke up around 10 to let my body rest after a long day and adjust to the 6 hours to which it isn't accustomed. I got up, ate a little breakfast, grabbed my Leipzig map and took to walking...a lot. The Lindner Hotel is about 4 or 5 miles from the city center, but it was a beautiful day of 65 - 72 degree weather. Walking was just fine with me. I headed toward the Zentrumnord (North central) portion of the city, where the Leipzig zoo is and the St. Michael church are located. I thought I might be able to hop on a train and get off at the St. Thomas Church, where Bach spent the last of his years (1723-1750). The Thomaskirche was the main objective for the day, and it was certainly the highlight. I couldn't find a train stop in the Zentrumnord, so I decided to snap a few quick pictures of the church before going south toward the Bachmoshere. Beautiful building. Adorning it is a grassy noll lined with roses...slight wind, chirping birds...beautiful day to see it. I wasn't allowed to take pictures of the interior, but I did get to go inside for a moment. Great acoustic...it was still set up from the previous evening's musical endeavors. I took a peek and headed toward Thomashof Straße to the musical Mecca. As I walked, I took photos of the city and it's old German architecture...I'm sure I looked like a tourist, but no one asked. I didn't really know what to expect on the journey, but I knew what the Thomaskirche looked like. I just kept my eyes open for the large white triangle between two spires. Then I saw it. At first glance it honestly took my breath away. It wasn't even the best view! I just saw it and instantly knew. I really couldn't believe I was looking at it with my own eyes. In fact, I don't think I really believed I was actually in Leipzig until that moment. Before I left the states, I looked up concert schedules for the Bachfest, which is happening now through the 21st, and I was excited to know that there would be a concert on the 13th, today. I was so involved in walking and looking for the place that I forgot all about the concert, and when I got there I realized I was in plenty of time to attend. I grabbed some lunch, and paid my two euros to listen to some timeless music. Lunch was interesting. The food was great, but it was the first time I actually had to speak to people who didn't speak English well. I walked up to the front of a restaurant behing the Thomaskirche, and inadvertently walked through a group of 20-somethings small circle. oops. It didn't really look like they were a group, as they were at separate tables, but as soon as I was in the middle of it, I quickly knew I wasn't welcome. I told them I was sorry and kept walking before they realized I was American and didn't speak German very well, and before they decided to put their large bicepts to use...Other than that, lunch was exquisite, and I paid and headed off to the church.
The concert brought me to tears. The organist was splendind and the choir was good, the Thomasorganist Ullrich Böhme and the Leipziger Oratorienchor. German professional musicians performing music by Germans in Germany...I was pretty much out of my skin. I was privileged to hear "Freie Phantasie" für Orgel on the Thomaskirche organ by Mendelssohn, "Der Mensch lebt und bestehet, op. 138 Nr.1" a piece for double choir by Max Reger (a new name for me...great music), "Meinen Jesum laß ich nicht" a cantata for soprano, choir, violin, viola, and organ. The congregation also participated in the final movement with the chorale melody, as is Baroque tradition in cantata performance. It was just awe-inspiring. We heard a seron of sorts, stood for prayer, recited the Lord's prayer (Vaterunser) in German, of course, sat and lastly listened to Bach's "Gott der Herr ist Sonn unSchild" cantata 79. This was a cantata written for Reformation celebration, and the text has ties to Psalm 84:12. A true jewel to hear inside the Thomaskirche walls. Then I walked back to the Hotel in complete silence...not because of the whole difficulty with the German language thing. I just couldn't bring myself to do anything but reflect as I walked.

I've posted pictures here.

Friday, June 12, 2009

So...ich bin hier!!

And I really thought it would be SO much HARDER than it was. Before I left, Rachel asked me if I was excited, and I told her that I was but not "giddy excited," meaning I didn't have a smile plastered to my face like the day of our wedding...wait...I promise I was (and still am) happy about that! But I was excited about travelling to Leipzig, but I wasn't so excited about leaving her behind, going by myself, not really knowing where I'm goinging, and not really knowing enough German. Sounds like a recipe for disater. But I got here 10,000 times smoother than I ever imagined I would. The hardest part was going through London's Heathrow airport...uhg. What a drag that place is. Seems like it has taken organization lessons from America's public schools...I mean...oops. Did I just type that? Really? Well, not ALL of USA's public education systems are quite that bad...maybe only the ones in which I've had some stake...possibly only one particular school... Anywho, note to self: Avoid Heathrow at all costs; unfortunaltely you have to go back through it on the way home... But really, though I had plenty of time to work out the Heathrow ordeal. I had five hours to figure out how to get a boarding pass for my next two flights (changing airlines was a new adventure for me) and find my boarding gate...plenty of time to feel like I haven't felt since registering for college the first time..."No, sorry sir. You're gonna have to go across campus to this building here and have THEM tell you what to do next...(meanwhile- back-at-the-Hall-of-Justice kind of thing for all you long time Superman fans)..."I'm sorry sir. You're going to head across campus from where you started...blah, blah, blah..." Ah, c'mon. You remember registering for college the first day...especially back before the user-friendly online registration. (Pretty sure I just dated myself...Thank Heaven the Internet and online registration isn't very old! Thanks Al Gore!)
Anyhoo... I get through Heathrow, which is the first stop of this LANGER Tag, and I'm off to Düsseldorf. 4 hour layover. Seemed like an ETERNITY. No one goes to Düsseldorf much. Smaller population than Dresden, TN. Cross my heart on that one. Finally board the plane to Leipzig/ Halle, and we are shuttled out onto the tarmac. This can't be good. One bus load. One plane full. It was the smallest plane I had ever realized I was going to ride. Smallest. Hands down. But you know, it was the smoothest ride of which I have ever taken part! Smoothest take off..eh, a few turbulent patches...and the smoothest landing ever! It really was quite amazing, and I congratulate and deeply thank my capitan of that flight.
So I get off the flight wondering if my luggage actually made it straight from Rahleigh, NC to Leipzig, De. I'm here to tell you that these people are good at what they do! My luggage was right there. I wasn't even given a baggage claim/ deck number. Picked it up, and off to get some food in the Leipzig/ Halle airport.
I get food, and the entire time I'm eating I'm thinking, "How am I gonna get to my hotel. Can I even FIND it? Maybe I'll take the train...but it's getting late, and I might have to sleep on the street. Oh my. I've never been this uptight and in knots in my LIFE!" All the while eating a salomi sandwich, which was quite good! I did enjoy my sandwich in spite of all that second guessing and, dare I say, THINKING too much. So...it's been a long day of waiting...waiting...waiting...so I follow the Taxi signs. I'm here to tell you that the Taxi driver took me right to my Hotel. It only cost 30 Euros WITH the gratuity. I might have paid only the fare with that amount in the States. And here I am in my cozy little Lindner Hotel Leipzig room with a bed, an Internet connection, and a mini-bar. Now for some sleep to rid myself of jetlag and fatigue...